If your hardware is in good shape, I see no reason not to reuse it. I've never seen a flathead that didn't have a dribble of oil emanating from the dipstick tube area. Another thing I like to do is get a package of brown paper lunch bags. As you remove hardware, label a bag with what it contains. Then you can fold them all up, tuck them in a box under the bench and you'll have everything at hand to re-assemble with no guesswork later on. Thanks for the reminder; I have to pick up a set of those number stamps.
Otherwise, I'm going to have to order one of those with a quickness. In the books that I've read, they talk about how the cam bearings are babbit, and that they should be removed before I get the block dipped. Is there a special tool for removing those? Keep in mind, I've never done the process before.
There are certain c-clamp style spring compressors that will work on a flathead block, usually a smaller one is better. Most will not fit. The machine shop you choose should have the capability to clean the block before any work is done. If they don't, find another shop. For the cost, you should probably have new ones installed.
Best of luck David! Im here if I can help you out in any way I have had great luck with the guys at Precision Machine in Waco, and Kevin Silva at Classic Jag here in town knows a thing or two about flatties. FORD , Dec 31, I am in the process of doing the same thing up here in spokane.
I got like and actually got a running engine but opened it up anyway. It looks real good, still has excellent crosshatch in all cyl. Will reassemble with all new gaskets and rebuilt h2o pumps,carb and starter.
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That's wonderful ford flathead. I think i'm also gonna do it to mine. Disassemble it down to the bare block, then off to a machine shop for block cleaning. Then have checked for cracks. After that you have a solid foundation to start over. Measure everything and put all the parts in boxes and label them. HotRodMicky , Dec 31, BTW i like T coupes on A frames alot! Another good thing, you already have a transmission! Hey HotRodMicky. Are those the process? I've built a few flatheads, but am always learning new tips and tricks. I'll subscribe! I agree with thunderbirdesque, bag and label everything!
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Some of those flathead bolts are hard to find at the local hardware store!!!! I use ziplocks myself. Im less prone to dumping them out when digging for the correct bag that way Tank , Jan 1, Much good advice. Since you've read some of the books, you probably know that Ford doesn't number cylinders the same way everybody else does position on the crank. Rather it's from front to back on the passenger side.
If you already knew that disregard this message. Dale Fairfax , Jan 1, Hey Nev Ive just spent the best of of the last year looking at and breaking down 3 flatheads to find a good one. I'd strip the block down to the point where nothing is still bolted or pressed on, labeling and bagging as mentioned, then dig out as much rust, casting sand and small insects as possible from the water passages.
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Use wire coathangers, or solid copper wires to snake around the water passages, roll the block around and do it again. I got about a full coffee can worth of sand out of the 8BA I rebuilt. It seems like a lot of work, but my flattie will not overheat. I ran it in the past 2 4th of July parades in degree heat with no problem.
Next, find a machine shop with flathead experience, and get on a first name basis with the man actually doing the work. Beware of all the books on the subject. They tend to disagree with each other on several points. One even has the wrong firing order. Trust the gurus on Fordbarn. Especially Rodnut and JWL. Good luck and have fun. Nevala You've got an interesting looking motor there. With the lifter valley so clean super low miles? Maybe we can all chip in a little here so here is my 2 cents. New hardware allways sets off any rebuild real nicely. Only a few minor changes have been made since building the prototype.
The only change you will be likely to notice is that the numbers on the cylinders were reversed to go around the opposite direction. The production models will have this and other tiny changes , and perform even better than the prototype. Careful waxing during construction will make it sound less like a duck call.
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The second engine model I would like to introduce is a V-Twin. It is inspired by the legendary Harley Davidson R Sportster engines from the late 50's.
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Legend has it that this engine is actually a radial engine with all but two of the cylinders stripped off. This certainly makes sense, as the radial was still the powerplant of choice for bombers and airliners when this engine was introduced.
My representation prominently features four individually geared camshafts, a genuine blade and fork piston rod arrangement like the Merlin engine in a P Mustang , parallel valves, a cog-belt primary drive, and an operational three speed transmission that actually shifts. The V-Twin prototype engine also went together well. The video below shows it running. The only changes I have to make to it are the profiles of the pulleys between the engine and the transmission.
This is why the transmission is not moving in the video.
I have not been able to re-cut the pulleys, as the laser cutter is waiting for parts. See the challenges section. If you would like to view the plans to build this engine, they can be downloaded here, or you can see them in video format here. They are "PDF"ed in double size, so that that you can zoom in and see extreme detail. By now, you should be aware that these are advanced kits. They each feature hundreds of small and large parts, all of which have to be glued together and fitted.
You will have to trim, sand, and glue to tight tolerances if you want the engine to work when you are done. Assembling the engines requires attention to minute details such as timing marks that must be properly aligned. Some of the gears must be glued to dowel rod shafts without allowing glue to touch any other parts. This link shows a computer animation of the radial engine going together. I do not recommend using a motor to spin these engines for more than a few seconds, as they do not have bearings and will wear out quickly. It took me about 10 hours to assemble each of the the first prototypes.
Finally, I am offering these kits in standard size as shown in the videos as well as in larger sizes. You will be able to learn more about these and future kits at www. Baltic Birch and Oak never looked so - technical. If you like kinetic wall art and engines, please share this with your friends. In order for these kits to be available to the public for affordable prices, we need to sell enough kits to buy a laser cutter. Otherwise, the project will be cancelled.